Category Archives: Portrush

A Giant Legend

A singular purpose today – explore the Giants Causeway,  designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 and the source of Gaelic mythology regarding a giant named Fionn mac Cumhaill.  On the way, we took a stop at Dunluce Castle a ruin from the 13th century precariously situated on a cliff.

After parking at the visitors center it was an easy walk, downhill, not so easy on the way back.

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The geological formations look routine.

Then from nowhere the lack of randomness makes you ask –  is this the result  of 60 million years of geological activity  or human intervention?

The geology expanded into a virtual field of columns pushing out the ground and into the sea making your feet underneath seem extraterrestrial.

Climbing required care.

For safety there were several “Causeway Cops” blowing whistles when someone strayed into dangerous territory.

Here is the experience of navigating the field. Forgive my attempts to narrate over the wind.

Nooks and crannies, vast fields, an Escher stairway pouring into the sea.

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The Wishing Chair.

Whole landscapes like no other.

You have been kind to all these scenic pictures over these last several days.  I promise they are over.  We head into Belfast tomorrow and the scenery will shift to urban architecture, old and new.

But wait, a decoy was spotted in a yellow rain slicker making several attempts to photo bomb our pictures.  This must stop.

Horn Headed

Good day from Portrush, Northern Ireland.

Always, always, always talk to strangers when you travel.

Last night while consuming Donegal Bay oysters, steamed mussels, and chips at The Olde Castle Bar and Fish Dock, two women scooted into the booth adjacent to ours struck up a conversation.  One, whose late husband was Irish, claimed Donegal County her favorite part of Ireland.  She talked about cliffs way out on the peninsula.   She was referring to Horn Head a series of cliffs that rise 600 ft. straight out of the sea.

We rose early and after a quick breakfast made the decision to drive there even though  our car time increased by 2 hours.   It was one of those instincts, “When are we ever coming back to Horn Head?  Let’s go.”

The drive took us through a range of Irish topography.  And it quickly became extremely rural, with  kilometers between  farm houses.

First the Irish green.

Then the ground hardened and grew more barren.

But still some sheep.

Farm trespassers beware of biosecurity!

And then the windmill farms.

Then back to green and blue.

And the occasional mountain.

Then we had Peat Moors.   Interesting fact; peat is the most efficient carbon sink on the planet.

The rows you see are cuts where the peat has been harvested.

A car came past in the opposite direction, flashing his lights at us.  Why?  Watch out!

Google Maps took us right up to the pinnacle of Horn Head.  These are not the Cliffs of Moher and as a result, are almost devoid of tourists.   Only two others crossed our path.

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On the highest rise sits an abandoned defensive structure.  Who knows if it is WWII or earlier but definately built to be manned for significant periods.  Why else have a fireplace?

Seems someone tried to claim its symbolism.

Looking back on the cliffs you get a different perspective.

Good thing we were the lone car on the drive down.

Our friend from last night told us tensions still exist between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, UK, crown vs. catholic.  That was apparent when we crossed the border.  No checkpoints, just a sign saying, “Welcome to Northern Ireland”, black spray smudging  out “Northern”.