Category Archives: Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park, Many Glacier Hotel

Farewell

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We were greeted with a stunning sunrise this morning at Many Glacier Hotel.

Due to the well stocked maid’s cart we had regular coffee while packing up. Oh, BTW, yesterday they were out of eggs for breakfast. And for those who asked, I had a reheated bowl of bison chili (meh) instead of the coveted trout. After packing up, we headed back to our little chalet in West Glacier to regroup before flying out of Glacier Park Airport early tomorrow afternoon. Our drive took us through wide open ranges with grazing cattle just east of the park boundaries. And, a very depressing glimpse of the life of the Blackfeet Tribe of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. I didn’t take pictures. We’ve been gorging on the beauty of Glacier but today we were made painfully aware of the difficult lives we’ve created for Native Americans.

Tonight we had an early meal at Belton Chalet, a historic railroad hotel. We had cucumber gazpacho and yes, finally, Rainbow Trout with baby bok choy, cauliflower, fermented turnips and miso garlic velouté. YUM!

Thanks for joining us on this trip. Happy Trails, Campers.

Glacier National Park, Many Glacier Hotel

Being Present

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After our drive yesterday we checked into Many Glacier Hotel, our splurge for the trip. We check out tomorrow the last day of the season. We like traveling during shoulder season. No family vans filled with kids to share their daily 3:00 PM implosion (time for a nap) of fits and screams for that last piece of whatever. The trade-off staying in a hotel and checking out the day they close is the empty larder. Last night I had my sights set on Sautéed Cutthroat Trout in brown butter, lemon, capers, and parsley. They were out and no more was coming in. I thought about asking if they could just go to the lake and catch one, but park rules are catch and release. Today we ate defensively, hitting the “Swiss Lounge” at 3:30 to beat the crowd and get ahead of the shrinking menu. Indeed, the bound menu was no longer available. Instead, a quickly copied white sheet of paper that could have borne the title, “This is what we have left.” While eating I heard our waiter tell a table, “We only have decaf left.” Good thing I raided a housekeeping cart early this morning. But hey, do we any right to complain with this view off our balcony?

as always, click image to enlarge

Checking in last night we went through our routine pleading for a view. Sandra, the kind desk clerk, finally called us on it with a smile, “This is the only room left, do you want it or not?” In fact, it couldn’t be better. Wayne is waving from our balcony.

There’s a temptation to hop in the car and drive to every site in the guidebook but today we decided to be still, present, and enjoy this wonderful place. Not wanting to be totally sedentary, the Swiftcurrent Lake Loop Trail beckoned us for a walk.

The bridge to cross over the mouth of the lake was being demoed today so instead, we took Sandra’s advice and walked on to Lake Josephine. The trail was a treasure and included views back to our hotel.

Just around a corner, midway up Lake Josephine, Grinnell glacier appeared right in front of us. The perfect place for a bit of lunch.

The glacier is the eight largest left. In 1966 it filled 252 acres, today just 139. You can see the waterfalls and cascades coming down the side of the mountain from meltwater (sorry for the digital zoom).

All told, it was a respectable, four mile walk. Perhaps it was due to the pending close but no matter how much Wayne pleaded a push-chair was not to be had.

Sunset tonight started pretty routine but some clouds rolled in and BAM! things got serious.

Night, Campers. Tomorrow, back to our little chalet to regroup for the flight home on Wednesday.

Glacier National Park, North Fork Glacier National Park, Polebridge Mercantile

Slow Down, People Breathing

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Since we are heading to the east side of the park tomorrow, we decided to drive up the west side of Glacier today and scout out the North Fork. We drove straight north along the boundary of the park for a completely different topography and flora. We drove up to the town of Polebridge and were greeted by this sign.

as always, click image to enlarge

We started out from our little cabin and drove to the west park entrance. Across the street, at the Conoco station, seems there was a meet up of unusual cars, especially this hand crafted creation.

On this drive, we were on the back side of Lake McDonald and saw the magic that happens post forest fire. The new growth comes back with a vigorous vengeance in defiance of the destruction. What we saw today was a result of the Moose Fire in 2001.

Today we learned what a Fen is. Kind of a cross between a marsh and a meadow.

Along the way we stopped and took in the flora.

We almost made it to Canada but the entry point was closed (wonder why?).

Free Library in the wilderness!

After several miles of gravel we pulled in to Polebridge. And it’s world famous Mercantile Store, the local gas station, cabins, and a cafe with an outdoor stage for music nights.

On the return, it was surprising to see how the colors were changing by just driving 20 miles north.

We’re headed to Many Glaciers Hotel tomorrow and will spend the entire trip on the Road-to-the Sun. Next two days, no wifi, no cell, so we’ll talk on Tuesday, campers.

Glacier National Park

Nous sommes pressé, allons lentement . . .

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Winner, Best Camper Van 2019
as always, click image to enlarge

“We are in a hurry, let’s go slowly.” Words to live by when there is so much to take in yet each moment demands your presence. Nature demands you live the childhood phrase, “Stop. Look. Listen.”

Most of our drive skirted Flathead Lake so calm its surface was a mirror. There were few pullouts so this stock photo will have to suffice.

We checked in to our cozy chalet for a three night stay.

Real world intrusions are to be avoided here, but laundry beckoned with a loud voice. But hey, if you have to do it, why not do it with a view. The monitor commented, “I haven’t seen folding skills like yours in a very long time.” I wasn’t expecting a medal but I certainly would have welcomed a few free minutes on the dryer. Free puppies, tempting.

On to the crown jewel . . .

First stop, Lake McDonald, again smooth as glass. I don’t remember a lake with such a gentle shore the smooth stones just laze into the water. Speaking of stones, with so many to choose from finding the perfect one takes some time.

One of the ever present rushing creeks.

In over 100 years of service, the red buses of Glacier have made their bold statement against the green forests. These beauts are remarkable, the cloth tops come off for ultimate viewing and they are kept in exquisite condition by their prideful caretakers.

The Lake McDonald Lodge is spectacular. It oozes confidence of time and place. Normally, I don’t like heads of dead animals, but this guy was giving me justified shade.

We were pressed for time since I had a conference call (yes, I got the right day and time) so we took our first drive on the “Going-to-the-Sun-Road“. Harrowing is an apt description when rock formations actually extend OVER the road. The views were worth it.

Remnants of a glacier hanging on for dear life.

On our way back, we stopped by a glacial cascade and pool. This is what happens when your Amazon order for camouflage goes wrong. It’s not an outfit, it’s a mood.

Meanwhile back at camp, I thought about bagging one for thanksgiving but I don’t have time to register it as a service animal for the flight home.

Happy day, campers!