On the Hotel Barge “Enchante”
I would posit every American traveling to France dreams of having the “meal of a lifetime”, their taste buds thrilled with every bite. Quite possibly many leave disappointed. That could never happen when Sylvain is chef. While he works quietly in an open kitchen with guests mere feet away, each move is confident, precise and achieves the intended purpose. He never seems to make just one dish from start to finish. Instead he is heating, cooling, seasoning, resting the food, and building the entire meal. Each course reaches its full potential just as it is placed in front of you. I thought I captured all of them but frequently the desire to pick up the fork beat out the camera.
Goats Cheese Aumoniere with honey and almonds served on a bed of green leaves. Roast Breast of Guinea Fowl with Tarragon Sauce served on top of potato balls with radishes and spring onion.
The kitchen is always working.
Tomato and Mozzarella Stacks with Fresh Basil, Balsamic Vinegar, and Olive Oil. Scallops in Crayfish Sauce. Rack of Lamb in Rosemary Jus with Ratatouille.
Preparing caramel baskets and poaching pears.
Filet of Fish from Narbonne Market on a bed of roast Fennel with Sauce Vierge and Pilaf Rice. Creme Caramel with basket of strawberries.
Parmentier de Canard with Parsnip crisps in a Spicy Sauce served with Celeriac Puree and Sautéed Celery.
Preparing Mint Creme Anglaise for snails while the Sole waits preparation (see previous post).
Trio of Asparagus served with a Homemade Herb Mayonnaise. Sole Meuniere served with Spinach Flan and Tomato Provencal.
Each dinner included a cheese course with flavors from local regions of France. This night was Morbier, Munster, and Langres.
Tartar of Avocado with Prawns in a Soy Sauce and Sesame Seed Dressing. Salmon in a Crust of Rock Salt (see previous post for visual recipe) served with fondue of Leek and Creamy Risotto.
Cheese Soufflé. Blanquette de Veau with Homemade Pasta, Pleurotes Mushrooms, Carrots, and Coriander.
Each morning a breakfast table was laid with pastries brought aboard daily, fruit, possibly some cheese from the previous night, smoked trout or ham, coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice.
Smoked ham, Quail Eggs, Phyllo cup with greens and walnuts. Tuna Steak with Beurre Blanc Sauce served with Lentils and Bell Peppers. Tiramisu.
The final meal comes together step by step.
For our final dinner; Homemade Foie Gras marinated with Cognac served with Fig Jam made with Red Wine and Cinnamon. Charolais Beef with Pear Shaped Mashed Potato, Green Beans wrapped in Bacon and Morel Mushroom Sauce.
Choux Pastry Swans swimming in a pool of Chocolate Caramel Sauce with Roast Nuts. Sylvain insisted his Sous-Chef plate our final dessert. The pressure was intense.
Nothing more powerful than a chef.
You have to be confident in who you are and what you’re doing. Of course, you try to evolve. I would never tell you, ‘Today is the best I will ever be.’ I’m always trying to be a better chef, a better dad, a better person.”
Guy Fieri
Seems he was describing Sylvain.
