We arrived at the Madrid–Barajas Airport at the wee hour of 6:00 AM local time. Terminal 4 is one of the world’s largest airport terminals in terms of area, with 760,000 square meters (8,180,572 square feet) in separate landside and airside structures. It consists of a main building, T4 (470,000 m2) and a satellite building, T4S (290,000 m2), which are approximately 2.5 km apart. We landed at the satellite building which meant taking a bundle of escalators and speed walks through great architectural halls which seemed vacant of use. In other words the gates were a long, long way from our exit. Yes, we had to take the stupid tram for 2.5 km just to get to other great architectural halls with no purpose that lead to finally, a dismal run of the mill passport control hall, a box devoid of any decoration or architectural significance (they can build soaring terminal spaces but still struggle when it comes to the dull passport hall). A quick cab ride and we arrived at the Hotel Totem.

As always, click to enlarge any photo

We are located in a charming neighborhood perfect for people watching (upscale Spaniard’s dressed to the nines, all carrying bags branded with their latest purchase). French windows are perfect for observing from above.

The rest of our first day was spent with a quick shop for essentials and multiple siestas.

Feeling pretty well adjusted after needed rest, this morning we set out for our first walk of the city down tree lined streets. I love the European approach to engineering. Make it work for the site instead of tearing it down and building new. Now this door definitely makes a statement.

Our first stop was Parque del Buen Retiro. Here is Saint Geronimo el Real Church, the place that started it all when the Jeronimos moved a monastery 1505 and shortly thereafter the royal family built a retreat next door, including a garden.

The park has quite the history dating from the 16th century with all manner of Spanish kings and queens putting their stamp on the place. It was a joyful place to spend time wandering through the paths and enjoying the sculpted gardens.

And of course, one for the home team.

We hit early afternoon and decided to have lunch at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz. Quite the place, even has a restaurant with two Michelin stars. We didn’t eat there, instead in the Palm Court which definitely is sans stars and skimpy on the wine pour. Really? Is that 18€ worth of wine?

The place is right across the street from the Prado so of course we decided to go in. Turned out it was “free day” so the cost of lunch wine was offset. The place is stacked cheek to jowl with European Masters from the 12th to the 20th centuries. We can only stomach so much blood and gore (most depict gruesome scenes) and pictures of the little baby Jesus, endlessly depicted as a healthy three month old with a halo.

My fave was this Ruben, Act of Devotion by Rudolf I of Habsburg. “This work depicts an episode from the life of Rodolfo I (1218-1291), founder of the Hapsburg Dynasty. While hunting with his page, Regulo de Kyburg, Rodolfo met a priest and a sexton who were taking the eucharist to a dying man but found their way blocked by a swift-flowing river. In order to help them cross the river, and as a demonstration of their respect for the Holy Sacraments, Rodolfo and his page ceded their horses to the two holy men.” As Wayne said, “It’s the first depiction of pay to play. Plus, if you look close in the lower left corner you will see an accurate portrayal of a dog peeing on a tree. Perhaps a sentient artistic comment on the future of organized religion.

After heading back to the hotel for a quick siesta we are eating Jamón Serrano, Manchego, and bread (sliced by this guy at the local market) in bed.