We were greeted with a stunning sunrise this morning at Many Glacier Hotel.
Due to the well stocked maid’s cart we had regular coffee while packing up. Oh, BTW, yesterday they were out of eggs for breakfast. And for those who asked, I had a reheated bowl of bison chili (meh) instead of the coveted trout. After packing up, we headed back to our little chalet in West Glacier to regroup before flying out of Glacier Park Airport early tomorrow afternoon. Our drive took us through wide open ranges with grazing cattle just east of the park boundaries. And, a very depressing glimpse of the life of the Blackfeet Tribe of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. I didn’t take pictures. We’ve been gorging on the beauty of Glacier but today we were made painfully aware of the difficult lives we’ve created for Native Americans.
Tonight we had an early meal at Belton Chalet, a historic railroad hotel. We had cucumber gazpacho and yes, finally, Rainbow Trout with baby bok choy, cauliflower, fermented turnips and miso garlic velouté. YUM!
Thanks for joining us on this trip. Happy Trails, Campers.
After our drive yesterday we checked into Many Glacier Hotel, our splurge for the trip. We check out tomorrow the last day of the season. We like traveling during shoulder season. No family vans filled with kids to share their daily 3:00 PM implosion (time for a nap) of fits and screams for that last piece of whatever. The trade-off staying in a hotel and checking out the day they close is the empty larder. Last night I had my sights set on Sautéed Cutthroat Trout in brown butter, lemon, capers, and parsley. They were out and no more was coming in. I thought about asking if they could just go to the lake and catch one, but park rules are catch and release. Today we ate defensively, hitting the “Swiss Lounge” at 3:30 to beat the crowd and get ahead of the shrinking menu. Indeed, the bound menu was no longer available. Instead, a quickly copied white sheet of paper that could have borne the title, “This is what we have left.” While eating I heard our waiter tell a table, “We only have decaf left.” Good thing I raided a housekeeping cart early this morning. But hey, do we any right to complain with this view off our balcony?
as always, click image to enlarge
Checking in last night we went through our routine pleading for a view. Sandra, the kind desk clerk, finally called us on it with a smile, “This is the only room left, do you want it or not?” In fact, it couldn’t be better. Wayne is waving from our balcony.
There’s a temptation to hop in the car and drive to every site in the guidebook but today we decided to be still, present, and enjoy this wonderful place. Not wanting to be totally sedentary, the Swiftcurrent Lake Loop Trail beckoned us for a walk.
The bridge to cross over the mouth of the lake was being demoed today so instead, we took Sandra’s advice and walked on to Lake Josephine. The trail was a treasure and included views back to our hotel.
Just around a corner, midway up Lake Josephine, Grinnell glacier appeared right in front of us. The perfect place for a bit of lunch.
The glacier is the eight largest left. In 1966 it filled 252 acres, today just 139. You can see the waterfalls and cascades coming down the side of the mountain from meltwater (sorry for the digital zoom).
All told, it was a respectable, four mile walk. Perhaps it was due to the pending close but no matter how much Wayne pleaded a push-chair was not to be had.
Sunset tonight started pretty routine but some clouds rolled in and BAM! things got serious.
Night, Campers. Tomorrow, back to our little chalet to regroup for the flight home on Wednesday.
Since we are heading to the east side of the park tomorrow, we decided to drive up the west side of Glacier today and scout out the North Fork. We drove straight north along the boundary of the park for a completely different topography and flora. We drove up to the town of Polebridge and were greeted by this sign.
as always, click image to enlarge
We started out from our little cabin and drove to the west park entrance. Across the street, at the Conoco station, seems there was a meet up of unusual cars, especially this hand crafted creation.
On this drive, we were on the back side of Lake McDonald and saw the magic that happens post forest fire. The new growth comes back with a vigorous vengeance in defiance of the destruction. What we saw today was a result of the Moose Fire in 2001.
Today we learned what a Fen is. Kind of a cross between a marsh and a meadow.
Along the way we stopped and took in the flora.
We almost made it to Canada but the entry point was closed (wonder why?).
Free Library in the wilderness!
After several miles of gravel we pulled in to Polebridge. And it’s world famous Mercantile Store, the local gas station, cabins, and a cafe with an outdoor stage for music nights.
On the return, it was surprising to see how the colors were changing by just driving 20 miles north.
We’re headed to Many Glaciers Hotel tomorrow and will spend the entire trip on the Road-to-the Sun. Next two days, no wifi, no cell, so we’ll talk on Tuesday, campers.
Winner, Best Camper Van 2019 as always, click image to enlarge
“We are in a hurry, let’s go slowly.” Words to live by when there is so much to take in yet each moment demands your presence. Nature demands you live the childhood phrase, “Stop. Look. Listen.”
Most of our drive skirted Flathead Lake so calm its surface was a mirror. There were few pullouts so this stock photo will have to suffice.
We checked in to our cozy chalet for a three night stay.
Real world intrusions are to be avoided here, but laundry beckoned with a loud voice. But hey, if you have to do it, why not do it with a view. The monitor commented, “I haven’t seen folding skills like yours in a very long time.” I wasn’t expecting a medal but I certainly would have welcomed a few free minutes on the dryer. Free puppies, tempting.
On to the crown jewel . . .
First stop, Lake McDonald, again smooth as glass. I don’t remember a lake with such a gentle shore the smooth stones just laze into the water. Speaking of stones, with so many to choose from finding the perfect one takes some time.
One of the ever present rushing creeks.
In over 100 years of service, the red buses of Glacier have made their bold statement against the green forests. These beauts are remarkable, the cloth tops come off for ultimate viewing and they are kept in exquisite condition by their prideful caretakers.
The Lake McDonald Lodge is spectacular. It oozes confidence of time and place. Normally, I don’t like heads of dead animals, but this guy was giving me justified shade.
We were pressed for time since I had a conference call (yes, I got the right day and time) so we took our first drive on the “Going-to-the-Sun-Road“. Harrowing is an apt description when rock formations actually extend OVER the road. The views were worth it.
Remnants of a glacier hanging on for dear life.
On our way back, we stopped by a glacial cascade and pool. This is what happens when your Amazon order for camouflage goes wrong. It’s not an outfit, it’s a mood.
Meanwhile back at camp, I thought about bagging one for thanksgiving but I don’t have time to register it as a service animal for the flight home.
We needed to split up the long drive from Yellowstone to Glacier National Park and instead of squatting at a Hampton Inn in Missoula we decided to take a stopover in Lolo National Forest, a place filled with Bighorn sheep, hot springs, and a mountain funk vibe. As the housekeeper said, “I love it here. I lived in Seattle for 30 years. Don’t get me wrong, I can make the city my bitch but I decided I needed a break and came out here.” No cell service, I repeat NO cell service and as for wifi, well . . .
The Lodge at Lolo Hot Springs is tucked into a hillside. They called our room the “tree house” because we looked straight into the forest. An of course, there were hot spring pools. The sign out front, while missing some letters, beckons travelers, “Yes, th Lodge has hot springs, St y and Soak.”
A perfect place to dial down and regroup after Yellowstone.
Wednesday morning we took our time and consumed copious amounts of coffee and then took a drive. While the horses were beautiful, we were in search of Bighorn Sheep.
And there were plenty of Bighorns. Roger, the lodge wrangler, suggested a specific drive that he had traveled that morning. “I saw two herds of Bighorn.” There is always a trepidation after someone says they saw wildlife that somehow we will miss it. But not this time.
In a never-ending effort to add far eastern charm to their already adorable selves the sheep know how to generate the sound of wind chimes with their padded hooves as they deftly climb the shale shrouded hillside.
Along the way we decided to walk the Interpretive Sheep Viewing Trail No. 721. It was less interpretive, more steep climb.
It was however, filled with flora and views. The good thing about yellow rain slickers is you can always find your mate.
Back on the road we stumbled on a new pack of sheep. Wait no, those aren’t Bighorn sheep. Roger doesn’t even know what they are. His suspicion is someone brought them here (maybe from Canada?) and they have broken free, now roaming the mountains. Leave your guesses as to identity in the comments. The winner gets an all expense paid trip to Lolo National Forest and mention in the Indigenous Fauna Hall of Fame.
If you look close you can see two White Tailed Deer. They were walking across the road as we approached. Somehow they managed to jump the fence.
On our way home we stopped at Jack’s Saloon for a late afternoon lunch. Patricia, she and her husband are the owners, couldn’t have been nicer. When I asked if I could take her picture, two ladies day drinking nearby spouted, “Oh, Patricia, now you’re a model.” To which she replied, “You know what I call them? My Northern Lites.” Note the swinging bar stool. Tradition dictates that you wind it up, take a shot, and then twirl. We took a pass.
We had been told that a motorcycle club was checking in. Wayne and I were hoping for some raucous behavior, perhaps a heated disagreement at the horseshoe pits but that was not to be. They were less “Easy Rider” and more “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance“.
We loved our stay here. Now, on to Glacier. Have a happy day, campers!
I’m not going to pretend that I can write anything new or insightful about the first national park in the world. Since 1872 it has drawn people from all over the world to view its magnificence, wonder, mystery; to stand on some of the earths thinnest crust, and be awestruck of the wilderness changing before your eyes every day .
On our drive to Mammoth Hot Springs we stopped for a short while at Moose Falls on Crawfish Creek, a sort of primer for what’s to come.
Stone bridge at the head of the falls
Lunchtime came just as we were approaching Old Faithful, so why not stop?
Next door, the Old Faithful Inn, built over the winter of 1903-1904, came close to destruction during the great fire of 1988.
We made it to Mammoth and checked into the hotel. Thank God there wasn’t a toddler riding a tricycle toward twins at the end of our hall.
We wanted to walk the ground of Fort Yellowstone but were thwarted by a herd of possessive elk (notice the playground) and several park rangers enthralled with their authority.
We made it back to the hotel without being arrested at close of day.
The next morning, the hot springs just across the street showed themselves in the morning sun.
Today’s schedule was a day long bus tour, “Yellowstone in a Day” . It ended at ten hours but if you want to know as much as possible you have to put in the time. As Wayne described Kevin, our guide, “It was like having a friend in the seat next to you.” He was passionate about Yellowstone and eager to share his 40 years of park knowledge. No we didn’t ride in that dandy bus, we had a van.
The “mic drop” of the day was Yellowstone Canyon and the Lower Falls.
For our second full day we headed to Lamar Valley for the vistas and wildlife. Both were impressive. We ate lunch on the rock in the river
Along our drive we came upon Lamar Buffalo Ranch created in 1907 to preserve one of the last free-roaming bison herds in the United States. It is now the Yellowstone Forever Institute, an educational camp for young kids and teens. While there we met the very pleasant Ranger John and his wife. John is a retiree trying to convince the powers that be to develop a program for retirees to donate a month of their time to volunteer at Yellowstone. We’ll take it! Especially if it comes with that ranger cabin.
On our drive back we stopped at Calcite Springs and hiked the north rim trail.
What would a Yellowstone post be without a bison picture. This guy decided to nest on the side of the road. We stayed in the car.
Yesterday we set off from Cody in much clearer skies even though the Fishhawk Fire had grown to 10,000 acres. Due to a senior moment thinking that I had a 3:00 PM conference call we climbed through Yellowstone pedal to the metal without taking in many sights along the way. We did stop at Lewis Falls.
as always, click image to enlarge
We arrived in time for a nice walk to Lunch Tree Hill where John D. Rockefeller, JR, was coaxed by the first head of the National Park Service, Horace Albright, in an effort to reel in Rockefeller’s support for the parks. It paid off, handsomely.
The walk was splendid with some of the Quaking Aspen already announcing fall’s arrival.
Walking to the dining room for a sunset dinner, we realized the squirrels had started without us.
The view from our table.
I had beef tenderloin over grilled asparagus sitting atop a Yukon mash with shallots and bacon. A huckleberry reduction was the perfect foil.
This morning we woke to cloudy skies but took a delightful boat trip up to the face of Mount Moran. Sans foothills to mute their strength, the Tetons are not bashful of their power. Gradually as you close in they engulf your entire field of vision and you are face on with the insurmountable force still building them today.
Lucky us, we were looking at a Bald Eagle nest when one of them took flight. Luckier still, I was able to catch it mid-sky.
It started raining a little when we returned and after lunch, a thunderstorm was approaching so back to the lodge we headed where I sat under the porch roof to take the conference call which I swear I had done yesterday.
The storm cleared and we took a walk around the grounds starting at the corral. We talked with the horses and met Rose, Tilly the dog, and the wrangler for the season. Rose is a rescue horse. She was headed for slaughter when a good soul swooped in and rescued her. She just had surgery on her ankle and you can see she still is underweight but doing well. She likes treats.
Yesterday, we rose early for our 6:30 AM flight to Portland, OR. I love flying over the mountains and was fortunate to have a window seat.
as always, click image to enlarge
PDX is a nice place to spend two hours, have a bit of breakfast and then board the next flight to Boseman, MT, again, flying over the mountains.
We covered the mountains twice by air in one day and will cover them by ground through the next two weeks. After wrangling our rental car we loaded up and headed further west through amber waves of grain.
We were weary but happy campers to arrive in Cody to lodge for the next two nights. We headed into town and after stumbling on the boot store Wayne founded the year after my birth we settled in next to the mantle in the Saloon of the Irma Hotel for taco salads.
Walking outside this morning I commented to Wayne, “Someone is burning a fire very early.” We smelled smoke in the air and indeed there was. Turns out, the Fishhawk Fire west of Cody and inside Yellowstone had expanded to over 4,500 acres overnight. The sky doesn’t lie.
The “camp” consisted of 467 barrack-style buildings sectioned into 20 blocks that served as administration areas and living quarters. The tarpaper barracks were divided into apartments, some single rooms and others slightly larger to accommodate families of up to six.
Here, an historical picture showing just a few of the barracks.
I don’t know how a picture in a frame inside a museum could honestly portray the vastness, but today I was able to stand in much the same place with an expanded view. As far as your eye could see was filled with barracks housing close to 11, 000 American citizens shortly after an American president authorized their deportation and incarceration with Executive Order 9066, issued on February 19, 1942.
While much of the land is now in private hands due to homesteading there are almost no structures in sight. The capaciousness overwhelms as no video, storyboard, or display case could possibly rise to.
click to enlarge image
The first visual after pulling off the gravel road is of a guard tower, light pole, and the chimney of the hospital steam plant.
The opening statement, uneasy indeed.
The main facility houses a meditation room and garden overlooking a field of sunflowers towards Heart Mountain.
The acres of grounds offer silent viewpoints.
Later back at the hotel I went out for a walk, the smoke now thicker.
After just walking a block, I stood in the middle of a neighborhood intersection and took a picture. Then turned 180 degrees for the next shot.
After dinner we walked out on the porch to find a staged gun fight in the street.
They certainly have some interesting bar stools at Irma’s hotel.
Surviving the shoot out, we decided to take a chance on the Buffalo Bill dam still being open for viewing. It wasn’t but we were traveling on the same highway we are taking tomorrow. It may be an interesting trip!
We will be traveling the highway which is the squiggly, northern border of the Fishhawk Fire Closure Zone along the north fork of the Shoshone River.
